If you’ve ever stepped into a home with 1970’s-era wood paneling, you know that although it once added character, it can quickly start to look dated or even oppressive. In many homes, these panels are made from low-quality laminate or MDF designed to mimic wood grain rather than the real thing. The good news is that you don’t need to tear the paneling out to modernize your space. With a few well-planned steps, you can paint over it to create a bright, fresh environment that perfectly reflects modern design trends.
In this detailed guide, we’ll show you exactly how to paint wood paneling—especially that fake wood paneling from the 1970s—in four simple steps. We’ll cover every nuance of the process, including prepping the surface, cleaning, sanding (or deglossing), priming, and finally painting. Additionally, we’ll include safety tips, product recommendations, and FAQs to help you avoid common pitfalls along the way.
Why Update 1970’s Fake Wood Paneling?
Outdated Aesthetics and Limited Versatility
Many homeowners find that the heavy, dark paneling popular in the 1970s no longer suits modern décor. The style can make rooms appear smaller, darker, and even dated. Modern interior design trends favor lighter, neutral, or even bold colors that help open up spaces and create a more welcoming ambiance. Painting the paneling is an affordable and effective way to update your home’s interior without the cost and mess of removal.
Challenges of Working with Fake Wood Paneling
Fake wood paneling—often a laminate or a veneer over MDF—can present unique challenges. The surface is usually glossy and non-porous, which means that standard latex paints may have difficulty adhering unless the surface is properly prepared. There’s also the risk of old coatings, grease, or even nicotine residue (especially in older homes) interfering with the adhesion of new paint. Fortunately, with the right cleaning agents, deglossing techniques, and primers, these issues can be overcome.
The Benefits of a DIY Update
- Cost-Effective: Painting is significantly less expensive than removal and replacement.
- Time-Saving: With careful planning, you can complete the project over a weekend.
- Customizable: You have the freedom to choose any color scheme that matches your design vision.
- Less Disruption: You avoid the mess and structural changes associated with panel removal.
Overview: The 4 Simple Steps
The process of painting over 1970’s fake wood paneling can be distilled into four key steps:
- Clean and Prep the Surface
- Degloss or Lightly Sand the Paneling
- Prime the Surface Thoroughly
- Apply the Paint
Each step is critical and builds on the previous one. Let’s explore each of these in detail.
Step 1: Clean and Prep the Surface
Why Cleaning Matters
Before you even think about applying paint, the paneling must be completely clean. Over decades, paneling accumulates dust, grease, grime, and sometimes even nicotine residue if previous occupants smoked indoors. Any contaminants on the surface will prevent paint from adhering properly, leading to peeling and an uneven finish.
Tools and Materials for Cleaning
- TSP or a TSP Substitute: Trisodium phosphate (TSP) is a heavy-duty cleaner that removes grease and grime. For those concerned about its harshness, there are eco-friendlier TSP substitutes available.
- Bucket of Warm Water
- Mild Dish Soap: Helps break down oils.
- Clean Rags or Sponges: For scrubbing and wiping.
- Gloves and Safety Glasses: Protect your skin and eyes from cleaning agents.
- Optional: Ammonia (especially if the paneling has nicotine stains)
Detailed Cleaning Process
- Initial Wipe Down:
Begin by using a clean, damp cloth to remove surface dust and cobwebs. This step is especially important if the paneling has been neglected for years. - Prepare a Cleaning Solution:
Mix a solution of warm water and TSP (or a TSP substitute) in a bucket. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for dilution ratios. If your paneling is particularly greasy or has heavy residue, you might add a few drops of ammonia (ensure proper ventilation and wear a mask when using ammonia). - Scrub the Paneling:
Dip a sponge or soft-bristle brush into the cleaning solution and gently scrub the entire surface of the paneling. Work in small sections to ensure you’re thoroughly cleaning each area. Pay extra attention to the grooves and seams where dirt tends to accumulate. - Rinse and Dry:
After scrubbing, use a separate clean, damp cloth dipped in fresh water to wipe away any cleaning solution residue. It’s crucial that no cleaning agents remain on the surface, as they can interfere with primer adhesion. Allow the paneling to dry completely—this might take several hours depending on humidity levels. - Inspect the Surface:
Once dry, check for any remaining stains or greasy spots. If you notice any stubborn areas, repeat the cleaning process in those spots.
By the end of this step, you should have a clean, residue-free surface ready for the next phase. Thorough cleaning is non-negotiable and sets the stage for a successful paint job.
Step 2: Degloss or Lightly Sand the Paneling
The Challenge of a Glossy Surface
Many 1970’s paneling comes with a glossy finish that was designed to be durable and easy to clean. However, this same sheen prevents new paint from adhering properly. To solve this, you need to “degloss” the surface.
Options: Sanding vs. Liquid Deglosser
- Light Sanding:
Using fine-grit sandpaper (around 120–150 grit) is a common method. The goal is not to remove the paneling but to scuff up the glossy finish so that the primer can bond effectively. If your paneling is fake wood (laminate or veneer), be very gentle—over-sanding can damage the thin surface layer. - Liquid Deglosser:
For those who are hesitant to sand, a liquid deglosser (or liquid sandpaper) is available at most hardware stores. These products chemically remove the gloss without abrasive sanding. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions closely when using a liquid deglosser.
Detailed Process for Deglossing
- Test a Small Area:
No matter which method you choose, start by testing a small, inconspicuous area. This ensures that the process won’t damage the paneling and that the primer adheres well afterward. - Sanding (If Chosen):
- Use a fine-grit sandpaper (120–150 grit) attached to a sanding block.
- Lightly sand the surface in a circular motion, focusing on scuffing up the glossy finish.
- Be extra gentle on the grooves to avoid sanding through any veneer.
- After sanding, wipe the paneling with a tack cloth to remove dust.
- Using a Liquid Deglosser (If Preferred):
- Apply the deglosser with a clean cloth or sponge.
- Work in small sections, ensuring that you cover the entire surface evenly.
- Allow the deglosser to dry for the time specified on the label.
- Wipe down the area with a clean, damp cloth if required by the product instructions.
- Final Check:
Ensure that the surface is uniformly dull. The primer will adhere much better to a surface that is not glossy.
Deglossing is a critical step. Skipping this can lead to peeling or chipping paint later on, which would undermine the entire project.
Step 3: Prime the Surface Thoroughly
Importance of Priming
Priming is arguably the most important step when painting over old or fake wood paneling. A high-quality primer not only improves the adhesion of your topcoat but also blocks any stains or tannins from bleeding through. This is especially important with older paneling that may have been subject to smoke, grease, or other contaminants.
Choosing the Right Primer
There are several primer options available depending on your paneling type:
- Oil-Based Primers:
These are highly effective at blocking stains and providing excellent adhesion. Products like Zinsser BIN are often recommended—but note that some experts warn that shellac primers can be brittle if overapplied. - Shellac-Based Primers:
These are excellent at sealing surfaces and preventing bleed-through, especially on problematic surfaces. However, they dry quickly and can be difficult to work with if you’re not experienced. - Waterborne Bonding Primers:
Products like Insl-X Stix or Zinsser’s Waterborne Bonding Primer are formulated specifically for glossy surfaces like laminate paneling. They offer a balance of ease of use and excellent adhesion without the harsh fumes of oil-based primers.
Priming Process
- Choose Your Primer:
For 1970’s fake wood paneling, many DIYers find that a waterborne bonding primer is a safe choice. However, if the paneling is particularly greasy or has stubborn stains, an oil-based or shellac-based primer might be necessary. Consult product labels and local experts for recommendations based on your specific paneling. - Application Tools:
Use a high-quality foam roller to apply the primer evenly across large surfaces. A brush is helpful for cutting in around edges, corners, and in the grooves of the paneling. - Apply a Thin, Even Coat:
Work in manageable sections. The key is to cover the entire surface uniformly. Be sure to brush into the grooves and seams where paneling meets trim. If you see any drips or areas where the primer pools, smooth them out immediately with your brush. - Let It Dry Completely:
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions regarding drying time. Most primers will require at least a couple of hours to dry completely before you proceed to painting. In cooler or more humid conditions, allow extra time. - Light Sanding (Optional):
Once the primer is dry, you can lightly sand the surface with a very fine grit (220 grit) if you desire a smoother finish. This step is optional but can help remove any brush marks or slight unevenness. Be sure to remove all dust after sanding.
By priming properly, you create a solid base that ensures the topcoat adheres well and lasts longer. Skipping or skimping on this step is one of the most common causes of peeling paint on paneling.
Step 4: Paint the Paneling
Choosing the Right Paint
For painting wood paneling, particularly fake wood paneling from the 1970s, the type of paint you choose is crucial for durability and aesthetics. Here are some key considerations:
- Interior Latex Paint:
Most experts recommend using a high-quality interior latex paint with a satin or eggshell finish. This type of paint provides durability and a slight sheen that is forgiving of minor imperfections. - Waterborne Alkyds:
For a finish that’s nearly as durable as oil-based paints but easier to clean up, waterborne alkyd paints (such as Benjamin Moore Advance®) are a great option. - Color Choice:
When updating a room with dark, dated paneling, a lighter color can make the space feel larger and brighter. Whites, off-whites, or soft neutrals are popular choices, but don’t be afraid to experiment with bolder colors if that suits your style.
Painting Process
- Cutting In:
Using a quality brush, start by “cutting in” the edges and corners of the paneling. This means painting the trim, corners, and any areas that a roller can’t easily reach. Taking your time here ensures that you have clean, defined lines and that no areas are missed. - Rolling on the Paint:
After cutting in, use a foam roller to apply the paint to the large, flat surfaces. Roll in a “W” or “M” pattern to avoid streaks and ensure even coverage. For paneling, it’s important to work slowly and carefully—excessive pressure might force paint into the grooves and create an uneven texture if that’s not your goal. - Multiple Coats:
Because paneling is often dark and the previous primer layer may still show through in areas, plan to apply at least two coats of paint. Allow each coat to dry completely before applying the next. The additional coats will not only deepen the color but will also ensure durability. - Final Touches:
Inspect your work carefully. Look for any drips, missed spots, or uneven areas, especially in the grooves and seams. Touch up as necessary with a small brush to ensure a consistent finish. Once you’re satisfied, allow the final coat to cure fully—this could take up to 24 hours before heavy use or decorating.
Post-Painting Care and Curing
- Curing Time:
While the paint may feel dry to the touch within a few hours, it’s important to allow the proper curing time as recommended by the paint manufacturer. Avoid placing furniture or hanging décor on the walls until the paint has fully cured. - Cleaning:
After the project is complete, clean your brushes and rollers according to the type of paint used (typically soap and water for latex paint). Proper cleanup ensures that your tools are ready for future projects.
Watch This Video Tutorial
For a practical demonstration of the process, check out this helpful YouTube video:
How To Paint Fake And Real Wood Paneling – Before And After
Additional Tips and Minor Details
Safety First
- Ventilation:
Always work in a well-ventilated area. Open windows and use fans if necessary to dissipate fumes from cleaning agents, primers, and paint. - Personal Protective Equipment (PPE):
Wear gloves, safety glasses, and a mask—especially when sanding or working with chemicals like TSP, ammonia, or liquid deglossers. - Test for Lead Paint:
If your paneling was painted before 1980, consider testing for lead. Sanding lead-based paint can release hazardous particles, so if lead is detected, use proper containment methods or consult a professional.
Environmental Considerations
- Temperature and Humidity:
The best time to paint is when the weather is moderate. Extreme temperatures or high humidity can affect drying times and the overall finish. - Clean-Up:
Dispose of any used cleaning solutions, paint, and primers according to local regulations. Many communities offer hazardous waste collection sites for these materials.
Tools and Products to Consider
- Deglosser Options:
If you prefer not to sand, look into liquid deglossers that can remove the sheen without abrasive action. - High-Quality Rollers and Brushes:
Investing in good tools pays off in a smoother finish. Foam rollers are ideal for applying primer and paint on flat surfaces. - Adhesion Promoters:
For particularly stubborn paneling, products like Insl-X Stix or other bonding primers can help create a surface that paint will stick to more reliably. - Spackle or Joint Compound:
If you decide to fill in the grooves for a completely smooth finish, use a quality spackle or joint compound. Follow up with light sanding before priming again.
When Not to Sand
While light sanding is generally recommended to improve adhesion, there are instances—particularly with very thin veneer paneling—where aggressive sanding can damage the surface. If you’re unsure, opt for a liquid deglosser instead of sanding. Always test on a small, hidden area first.
Dealing with Imperfections
Old paneling may have imperfections like cracks, dents, or areas where the laminate has begun to peel. Use wood filler or spackle to address these issues before priming. This extra step ensures that your finished wall has a uniform appearance.
Budget Considerations
Painting over paneling is a budget-friendly alternative to removal and replacement. The bulk of your expenses will come from primer, paint, and any cleaning or sanding materials. Many homeowners find that this DIY project is well within their budget and provides a dramatic transformation without the high cost of professional renovations.
FAQs – How To Paint Wood Paneling
Q1: Can I paint directly over 1970’s fake wood paneling without sanding?
A: Technically, you can paint over paneling without sanding if you use a high-quality primer designed for glossy surfaces. However, even light sanding or deglossing greatly improves adhesion. If you choose to skip sanding, make sure the paneling is thoroughly cleaned and consider using a liquid deglosser to dull the surface.
Q2: What is the best primer to use for fake wood paneling?
A: The best primer depends on your paneling type. For laminate or veneer paneling, a waterborne bonding primer (such as Insl-X Stix or Zinsser’s Waterborne Bonding Primer) works well. For surfaces with stubborn residues, an oil-based or shellac-based primer might be necessary. Always follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for your specific product.
Q3: Do I need to fill the grooves in the paneling?
A: This depends on your desired finish. If you like the textured look of paneling, you can leave the grooves as is. However, if you want a smooth wall appearance, fill the grooves with joint compound or spackle. Then, sand lightly to create an even surface before priming.
Q4: How long should I wait between each coat?
A: Drying times vary by product and environmental conditions. As a general guideline, allow at least 2–4 hours for primer to dry completely before applying paint. After the first coat of paint, wait at least 4–6 hours before applying a second coat. Always refer to the instructions on your specific products.
Q5: Can I remove the paneling instead of painting over it?
A: While removal is an option, it is often expensive and labor-intensive, particularly if the paneling covers a large area. Painting over the paneling is a cost-effective and less disruptive alternative, especially for budget-conscious homeowners or those looking for a quick update.
Q6: What type of paint finish is recommended?
A: For wood paneling, a satin or eggshell finish is generally recommended because it provides durability and hides minor imperfections. High-gloss paints tend to highlight flaws, so unless that is the look you’re going for, stick with a matte or low-sheen finish.
Final Thoughts
Updating 1970’s fake wood paneling is an achievable DIY project that can completely transform a room’s ambiance. By following these four simple steps—cleaning, deglossing or light sanding, priming, and painting—you can breathe new life into outdated paneling without breaking the bank.
The process might require a bit of extra time and effort, but the results are well worth it. Not only do you modernize your space, but you also protect your investment with a durable finish that can stand up to everyday wear and tear. Whether you’re updating your own home or prepping a property for sale, a well-executed paint job on wood paneling can dramatically enhance the overall appearance and appeal.
Remember that every project is unique. Factors such as the paneling’s current condition, environmental conditions, and your personal aesthetic preferences will influence your approach. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different products and techniques—always test a small area first to ensure compatibility.
In conclusion, if you’ve ever wondered, “How to Paint Wood Paneling” in a way that looks professional and lasts for years, the answer lies in proper preparation. Clean thoroughly, degloss gently, prime meticulously, and apply your paint with care. Follow the advice laid out in this guide, and you’ll be well on your way to achieving a beautifully updated space that feels both modern and inviting.
Happy painting!
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